![]() ![]() You could probably get away with just an iron, but I opted for one with an air gun too ($130). You'll want flux, solder wick, solder etc. I had two different serial numbers to deal with, but managed to find both replacement boards on AliExpress for under $20. Find someone selling an exact match for your board.I got lucky and the AliExpress seller did this step for me in the item photos. Location is likely to vary by brand but for my WD Red NAS drives it was printed on the boards and looked like this: "2060-810011-001" Mine had a couple T8 screws holding it in place. You'll likely need to remove the PCB from the exterior of the HDD enclosure. Locate the serial number for your PCB. ![]() You may need these for reference when you start removing and re-soldering components. I'm no expert in this area either but I'd recommend practicing removing chips of similar size on an old PCB before putting a heat gun anywhere near your drive's PCB. That said, you'll need to be at least a little comfortable with soldering. If you don't swap the BIOS chip, data will not be readable even if the drive spins up. I'm not sure this applies to all HDDs, but in my case I would need to swap a BIOS chip from the damaged board to the new one. In my theory, replacing the PCB would mean replacing any damaged TVS diodes. My drives have an external PCB as I assume most do. I'm a novice when it comes to troubleshooting components on a PCB so I wasn't confident I'd be able to even identify TVS diodes, much less isolate which one(s) are failing. If you're willing to accept the risk of damaging your HDD further, read on. It might be expensive depending on how much data you're trying to recover, but sometimes it's best to leave it up to a professional. If data contained on the drive is highly sensitive and you don't want to take any chances, find a reputable company to handle recovery and eat the cost. I'm guessing since this is question is over a year old, your issue has been resolved one way or another, but wanted to add my experience. Mine were configured in a TrueNAS core pool which resumed functioning after some soldering and PCB replacement. I managed to save two 3TB WD Red NAS drives and the data that was on them. Blind Spot's answer led me down a path to replacing the HDDs' external PCBs. The result was the same as you described - disks would no longer power on, even when installed in a different system. I wanted to save time by not re-running a SATA power cable from an existing Corsair PSU being replaced with an EVGA PSU. I haven't heard any strange sounds nor have I smelled anything burning.ĭoes anyone know what could be causing the problem and how to fix it? Swap to another SATA outlet, problem persists.Swap to another new cable, problem persists.Attempt to boot up, problem encountered.I tried swapping to another SATA outlet on the PSU, no change. I had reused the existing SATA power cable, so I swapped it for a new cable that came with the PSU. According to the BIOS, none of the hard drives are being recognized as present. After installing the parts, when I tried starting the computer it didn't boot Windows and instead went to the BIOS. I recently bought a new graphics card for my computer and a more powerful PSU to match the requirements. ![]()
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